It’s been a while I upload o rings written any thing, I’m working on pattern for pant. I will upload that soon.
Here are a few of my designs, I made them while in college.
More coming soon.
Women Bodices Block Drafting, we begin with the women basic block, but before we start I want to clarify that the method I’m about to introduce is one that I achieved While studying different patterns in books, YouTube videos, different web site and blogs. Like i wrote on my page “Having Your Own Method Of Pattern Making”.
When I first started my journey into fashion design I found that there were so many authors and methods in achieving a pattern, it was confusing at first but after a while of fumbling I came up with a way that worked for me
1. first selecting the right books
2. understanding there methods
3. selecting which Method worked for me
4. combining my selected methods
I came up with my choice, I have tried it several times with different garment and it’s perfect so I stuck with it.”
So,we begin with the simple for me, the women basic block pattern,
Measurement needed are:
1. Nape to waist
3. Shoulder length
4. Chest width
5. Back width
6. Neck circumference
7. Bust circumference
8. Waist circumference
1 – 2 = 0.75inches. 1 – 2 = Nape to waist
0 – 4 = 1/2 bust circumference ( Adding 1 inch or more ease is optional, depending on the style or design of the cloth. For stretch material ease are not used,in some cases the body measurement are even reduced.
0 – 5 = armscye depth. 5 – 6 = 0 – 4
4 – 3 = 0 – 2. 2 – 3 is the waistline.
1 – 7 = half of 1 – 5 minus 1cm.
0 – 8 = 1/5 of neck circumference
connect 1 – 8 with a curve, that is back neckline.
8 – 9 = 10cm ( we use that as a guide line for the shoulder line, 9 – 10 = 1 to 1.5 inches.
8 – 11 = shoulder measurement plus 2cm for dart.
5 – 12 = 1/2 back width square up to meet line 8 – 11.
5 – 13 = 1/2 of 5 – 12, square up to meet line 15.
5 – 14 = 1/2 of 5 – 6.
11 – 11b = 1.5cm
4 – 16 = 1/5 neck circumference, 4 – 17 = 4 – 16
16 – 18 = this is the shoulder dart from the standard measurement chart. Use the bust dart measurement closest to your bust circumference.
connect 18 to 11b. 6 – 19 = 1/2chest plus 1/2 shoulder dart.
6 – 20 = 1/2 of 6 – 19, take 1inch down from the 20 which is the bust point, to 21, take a straight line from 20 to 22.
19 – 23 = 1/2 of 12 – 19. 19 – 24 = 1/2 of 17 – 6.
Connect 21 – 16 with a straight line, do the same for 21 to 18, then measure the line from 21 to 16, that we be the measurement of 21 to 25.
From 25 connect to 11b with a slight curve, from 25 measure shoulder measurement to 26.
8 – 27 = 1/2 of 8 – 11, on both side of 27 is 1cm. 5cm long to 28. A straight line from 23 to 29.
the waist dart is gotten with this method:
1/2 bust circumference – 1/2 waist circumference = n
“n” divided by 3 = is the waist dart.
Front dart : is the waist dart, Back dart : is waist dart minus one third of back dart seam. Side seam : is waist dart minus two third of back dart seam. Back dart seam : ranges from 5 to 10cm, this depends on the width of the dart, also helps with the fitting at the back seam.
For waist dart. Examples :
Below is an example for better understanding,
Bust circumference = 34inches . Waist circumference = 28inches . Back seam dart = 6cm.
34 divided 2 = 17. 28 divided 2 = 14.
Then, 17 minus 14 = 3.
2.5cm is 1inch .
3 divided 3 = 1. One third of 0.6cm = 0.2, Divide 6 in three places, like so, 0.2 0.2, 0.2, then 2 out of the three answers, which is 0.2, 0.2, = 0.4cm
Front dart = 1. Back dart = 1inch multiplied by 2.5 cm – 0.2cm = 2.5 minus 0.2= 2.3cm, Side seam dart = 1inch multiplied by 2.5 – 0.4cm = 2.5 minus 0.4 = 2.1cm. For the back seam dart I decided to use 6cm because the 1inch dart is moderate waist dart. If the waistline dart was below 1inch I would go for 5cm and below, 1inch and above one can use 6cm and above, depending on how fitted you want the back to be.
30 and 31 make up the front waist dart, that is half of the dart on both side of 22.
HAlf of back dart on both side of 15, mark as 32 and 33.
Half of side seam dart know both Side of 29, mark as 34 and 35.
36 is the back seam dart.
This is the finished drafted women basic pattern.
Next we will be learning to transfer dart, to pivot method and slash and spread method.
1. The sewing machine: Intro into Sewing Machine, its types, its uses, its stitches.
Sewing has come a long way from the time when we hand sew, to domestic method and then industrial sewing.
So, with the varieties and improvements of sewing machine Homemade dresses can be High fashion, so that new exciting outfits can be made without it looking anything like homemade. For varieties of reasons it is possible to achieve professional result in cloth making.
Modern technology helped in the changes in the fashion industrial. This didn’t only affect the Sewing method but also made it possible in the achievement of varieties, availability and affordability of fabric choices.
Intro into Sewing Machine
Sewing machine are machines used to stitch fabric and other materials together with thread.
The first Sewing machines was invented during the first Industrial revolution to decrease the amount of manual sewing work performed in clothing companies.
The invention of the first working sewing machine, was generally considered to have been the work of Englishman Thomas Saint in 1790.
Although his machine was mainly for leather and canvas,the sewing machine has greatly improved the efficiency and productivity of the industry.
Domestic Sewing Machine
Home sewing machines or domestic sewing machine are designed for one person to sew individual items while using a single stitch type.
In a modern sewing machine the fabric easily glides in and out of the machine without the inconvenience of needles and thimble and other such tools used in hand sewing. Automating the process of stitching and saving time.
industrial sewing machines is a perfect combination of power, performance, durability and value for commercial sewing purposes. Industrial sewing machines differ from domestic machines, because they are larger, faster, and more varied in size, cost, appearance, and task.
Commercial sewing machines as they are also referred to are highly specialized machines that are designed to perform smaller range of tasks unlike the common household machines that serve a wider variety of tasks.
The interesting part of these machines is that they are built to perform jobs that may be too tough for other machines. They excel at heavy-duty sewing.
This includes items such as sails, saddles, webbing, belting, canvas, upholstery, tents and many other projects that use material tougher than your regular sewing machine can withstand.
Many of the commercial sewing machines comes with a built-in or attachable walking foot which keeps layers of materials from shifting while sewing.
Pattern making and sewing intro
Pattern making and sewing intro, an introduction to a part of fashion design.
I studied Fashion and Apparel Design, so i would love to take you on the brief summary of one of the important unit in Fashion and Apparel Design.
This is going to be on the Pattern Making and Sewing. We will begin from the basics then progress to the advanced level.
Fashion and apparel design is usually thought of as an easy course but I’ve come to find that because of the Apparel design included in the degree title it wasn’t as easy as was said.
More of Fashion and Apparel design: First semester is the beginning and a process to the much advance part of the course. In Apparel design your study about fiber, yarn, fabric and types of chemicals used in fabric making( fabric making not cloth or garment making), processes and types of printing such as screen printing, block printing etc. and also it includes technical and non-technical fabric used several parts of our daily life such as Medical field, Electronic field, Agricultural field even building construction.
Don’t worry we wouldn’t be discussing that here, we would be learning about Pattern making and Sewing.
We could decide to learn more about other parts of Fashion and Apparel design in the other pages of my blog.
For pattern making and sewing, I’ll make it quite brief and simple here, of cause i will be referring you to text books referred to in this syllabus, but not to worry examples would be given.
Basic meaning that we would be looking at Topics like:
- The Sewing machine and its type, its uses, it’s stitches.
- Study on body sizing and chart from the infant to children, for men, for women all these in the standard measurement.
- Then we’ll go to the drafting of slopes Using standard measurements for infant, children (preschool, two years to six years), women, men.
- Preparation of Muslim block.
- Flat Pattern Techniques and it’s Application, Pivot, splash and Spread ( Singer dart series, Double dart series, Radiating, Parallel, Graduating), conversion of darts to tucks, pleats , gathers, and seams.
When we are done with this we can move to the next.
Having Your Own Method Of Pattern making
Having Your Own Method Of Pattern making is not a must do, but i feel it makes pattern making more interesting and fun. It could be daunting and even stressful but you get to find out different things about pattern by do so.
Pattern making can be made easy if you take your time to understand the basics and realise that you have to read books and even watch video to know which method works for you, this anyways is if you are interested in a well constructed garment. I find that for me I need a picture representation of an explained pattern to understand it, expect I came up with the pattern myself.
When I first started my journey into fashion design I found that there were so many authors and methods in achieving a pattern, it was confusing at first but after a while of fumbling I came up with a way that worked for me,
1. first selecting the right books
2. understanding there methods
3. selecting which method worked for me
4. combining my selected method
I came up with my choice, I have tried it several time with different types of garment, they were perfect so I stuck with it.
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