Women Basic Pattern Drafting

Women Bodices Block Drafting, we begin with the women  basic block, but before we start I want to clarify that the method I’m about to introduce is one that I achieved While studying different patterns in books, YouTube videos, different web site and blogs. Like i wrote on my page “Having Your Own Method Of Pattern Making”.

When I first started my journey into fashion design I found that there were so many authors and methods in achieving a pattern, it was confusing at first but after a while of fumbling I came up with a way that worked for me

1. first selecting the right books
2. understanding there methods
3. selecting which Method  worked for me
4. combining my selected methods

I came up with my choice, I have tried it several times with different garment and it’s perfect so I stuck with it.”

So,we begin with the simple for me, the women basic block pattern,


Measurement needed are:
1. Nape to waist
2. Armscye
3. Shoulder length
4. Chest width
5. Back width
6. Neck circumference
7. Bust circumference
8. Waist circumference

1 – 2 = 0.75inches.              1 – 2 = Nape to waist

0 – 4 = 1/2 bust circumference ( Adding 1 inch or more ease is optional, depending on the style or design of the cloth. For stretch material ease are not used,in some cases the body measurement are even reduced.

0 – 5 = armscye depth.       5 – 6 = 0 – 4

4 – 3 = 0 – 2.    2 – 3  is the waistline.

BACK PATTERN

1 – 7 = half of 1 – 5 minus 1cm.

0 – 8 = 1/5 of neck circumference

connect  1 – 8 with a curve, that is back neckline.

8 – 9 = 10cm ( we use that as a guide line for the shoulder line, 9 –  10 = 1 to 1.5 inches.

8 – 11 = shoulder measurement plus 2cm for dart.

5 – 12 = 1/2 back width square up to meet line 8 – 11.

5 – 13 = 1/2 of 5 – 12, square up to meet line 15.

5 – 14 = 1/2 of 5 – 6.

     FRONT PATTERN

11 – 11b = 1.5cm

4 – 16 = 1/5 neck circumference, 4 – 17 = 4 – 16

16 – 18 = this is the shoulder dart from the standard measurement chart. Use the bust dart  measurement closest to your bust circumference.

connect 18 to 11b.  6 – 19 = 1/2chest plus 1/2 shoulder dart.

6 – 20 = 1/2 of 6 – 19, take 1inch down from the 20 which is the bust point, to 21, take a straight  line from 20 to 22.

19 – 23 = 1/2 of 12 – 19.        19 – 24 = 1/2 of 17 – 6.

Connect 21 – 16 with a straight line, do the same for 21 to 18, then measure the line from 21 to 16, that we be the measurement of 21 to 25.

From 25 connect to 11b with a slight curve, from 25 measure shoulder measurement to 26.

8 – 27 = 1/2 of 8 – 11, on both side of 27 is 1cm. 5cm long to 28. A straight line from 23 to 29.

WAIST DART

the waist dart is gotten with this method:

1/2 bust circumference – 1/2 waist circumference = n

“n” divided by 3 = is the waist dart.

Front dart : is the waist dart,           Back dart : is waist  dart minus one third of back dart seam.       Side seam :  is waist dart minus two third of back dart seam.  Back dart seam :  ranges from 5 to 10cm, this depends on the width of the dart, also helps with the fitting at the  back seam.

For waist dart.    Examples :

Below is an example for better understanding,

Bust circumference = 34inches .   Waist circumference = 28inches .                 Back seam dart = 6cm.

34 divided 2 = 17.       28 divided 2 = 14.

Then,   17 minus 14 = 3.

2.5cm is 1inch .

3 divided 3 = 1.           One third of 0.6cm = 0.2,          Divide 6 in three places, like so,  0.2     0.2,     0.2,  then 2 out of the three answers, which is 0.2,   0.2, = 0.4cm

Front  dart = 1.     Back dart = 1inch multiplied by 2.5 cm – 0.2cm = 2.5 minus 0.2= 2.3cm,         Side seam dart = 1inch multiplied by 2.5 – 0.4cm = 2.5 minus 0.4 = 2.1cm.  For the back seam dart I decided to use 6cm because the 1inch dart is moderate waist dart. If the waistline dart was below 1inch I would go for 5cm and below, 1inch and above one can use 6cm and above, depending on how fitted you want the back to be.

30 and 31 make up the front waist dart, that is half of the dart on both side of 22.

HAlf of back dart on both side of 15, mark as 32 and 33.

Half of side seam dart know both Side of 29, mark as 34 and 35.

36 is the back seam dart.

This is the finished drafted women basic pattern.

Next we will be learning to transfer dart, to pivot method and slash and spread method.

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